Care & maintenance

Automatic movements

An automatic winds itself through the motion of your wrist. Worn daily it will keep running; left idle it stops after roughly 40–48 hours and needs only a gentle shake or 20–30 turns of the crown to restart.

• A watch winder is optional. If you use one, choose a low rotation setting — continuous high-speed winding adds needless wear.
• Plan a full service every 5–7 years. A movement losing or gaining more than a few seconds a day, or sounding gritty when wound, should be seen sooner.

Quartz movements

• Expect 18–36 months from a battery. Replace it promptly once the seconds hand starts jumping in multi-second intervals — that is the low-battery warning.
• Never leave a dead battery in the case. Cells can leak and corrode the movement, which is a far more expensive repair than a replacement.
• Have the battery changed by a watchmaker who will replace the case gasket and pressure-test afterwards, rather than simply popping the back on.

Manual movements

• Wind once daily, ideally at the same hour and with the watch off the wrist, so the crown stem is not stressed at an angle.
• Stop the moment you feel resistance. Forcing a fully wound mainspring is the single most common cause of avoidable damage.

Everyday wear

• Put jewellery on last when dressing and take it off first — this keeps it clear of perfume, hairspray, lotions and cosmetics, all of which dull metal and stone over time.
• Never operate the crown or pushers while the watch is wet, and make sure the crown is fully closed before any contact with water.
• Remove pieces before swimming in chlorinated or salt water, saunas and hot tubs, and before contact sport or manual work.
• Keep away from strong magnets — laptop speakers, tablet covers, handbag clasps and induction hobs are the usual culprits. Magnetisation shows up as a watch suddenly running fast, and a watchmaker can reverse it easily.

Cleaning

• Wipe the case and bracelet with a soft, dry microfibre cloth after each wear, to lift skin oils and dust before they build up in the joints.
• For a metal bracelet, occasional cleaning with lukewarm water, a drop of mild soap and a very soft toothbrush lifts grime from between the links. Rinse and dry thoroughly, crown fully closed.
• Keep leather straps dry. Repeated wetting makes leather stiffen, crack and separate at the stitching. A well-worn strap is a consumable — expect to replace it every one to two years of regular wear.
• Gold is soft and will pick up fine hairlines with wear. That is normal and part of the character of a worn piece; polishing can reduce them, but every polish removes a little material, so it is best done sparingly.
• Never use ultrasonic cleaners, solvents or commercial jewellery dips at home — they can strip lume, degrade gaskets and loosen set stones.

Storage

• Store dry, at stable room temperature, out of direct sunlight — prolonged UV fades dials and ages strap leather.
• Keep pieces separated in a lined box or soft pouch so cases and stones cannot rub together. Diamond is hard enough to scratch virtually anything sharing a drawer with it.
• Retain original boxes, papers and accessories. They materially affect value should you ever sell or trade.

Water resistance

Water resistance is a seal condition, not a permanent specification. Gaskets harden and shrink with age, so a rating stamped on a case back decades ago tells you little about the watch today.

• Have the case pressure-tested annually, and always after the case back has been opened for any reason.
• Treat vintage pieces as not water resistant, regardless of their original rating.